what it’s really like on rovos rail, one of the world’s most luxurious trains

By Annabelle Bragalone 

Everyone has seen the glossy photos. The polished wood. The gleaming brass. The linen-draped tables. But what is it actually like to live on a train for three days as you cross Africa from Pretoria to Victoria Falls? 

Picture this. You wake up to a soft sunrise over the savannah. The light glows gold over dry bushveld. You sit up in a comfortable bed as the train glides forward in complete silence. You sip your coffee while watching the Hwange National Park pass by as the train moves. Rovos Rail feels cinematic in a way that matches every photo you have ever seen. 

Below is the real experience, from boarding to dining to the day-to-day rhythm of life on board. 

Arriving at the Private Rovos Rail Station 

The journey begins even before stepping onto the train. Guests arrive at the private Pretoria station, hand over passports and luggage, and meet members of the Rovos Rail team. I recommend arriving at least an hour early to walk through the restored station and view the historic rail memorabilia that fills the space. If timed well, you might experience a guided tour from the founder and CEO, Rohan Vos. 

The tour quickly becomes a highlight. Rohan shares how he built Rovos Rail from the ground up, created hundreds of jobs, and revived the lost craft of rail woodwork. Many of the wooden details on the trains are hand carved by artisans he trained himself. You learn how the wheels are engineered, how the vintage coaches were sourced from all over southern Africa, and how each piece was repaired in the Rovos Rail workshop. It sets the tone for the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the journey. 

Boarding and Settling In 

When boarding begins, a crew member calls your name and escorts you to your suite where your luggage waits neatly inside. The train offers three room categories: Pullman Suite, Deluxe Suite, and Royal Suite. 

I stayed in a Deluxe Suite, which is ideal for a solo traveler or a couple. It has a comfortable bed that stretches wall to wall, a surprisingly spacious bathroom with a shower, and a separate sitting area with two chairs, a table, and large windows. There is a wardrobe with hangers, slippers, a robe, a safe, and a floor length mirror. Rovos Rail provides toiletries throughout the journey and they come in a cute bag you can keep. It immediately feels peaceful and private. 

I was also able to tour the other suites. The Royal Suite is stunning, massive, and has a full bathtub. Imagine a bubble bath with a glass of champagne while the train drifts along the edge of Hwange National Park. You look out the window in search of elephants as you soak. It feels unreal in the best possible way. 

Dining on the Train 

I had high expectations for the food and it still exceeded every one of them. Each lunch and dinner is served as a four course meal with wine pairings. The wines are primarily South African selections chosen to match each dish. The menus feature fresh ingredients, beautifully plated dishes, and classic preparations with South African influence. Every plate feels thoughtful rather than overly elaborate. 

Breakfast is served to order in the dining car until midmorning. The crew knew that I loved iced mocha drinks and made one every morning for me and my colleagues. I have not stopped thinking about it since returning home. Still trying to replicate it. 

The experience becomes an effortless cycle: eat, admire, converse, rest, repeat. You develop a slow and comfortable rhythm that fits perfectly with long train travel through Africa. 

Dress Code and Wardrobe Notes 

Daytime attire is smart casual. Women often wear sundresses, linen pants, or simple blouse and skirt outfits. Men usually wear chinos or linen trousers with polos or button downs. 

Dinner is dressier. Women wear cocktail dresses or elegant jumpsuits. Men wear jackets, collared shirts, and dress shoes. Nothing feels formal in a stiff or stressful way, but it does feel elevated. 

Life on Board and the People You Meet 

Days at leisure feel restful and social at the same time. You spend hours in the lounge cars or observation car with a glass of South African wine while talking with the guests around you. Most people on board have traveled extensively and are excited to share stories. The conversations feel natural and never forced. 

There is no wifi and no cell service in public cars. The train is intentionally a smart device free environment. The only time you can use your phone freely is inside your private suite, although you still will not have service. It creates a calm digital detox that makes it easier to be present and appreciate the journey. 

The mix of people is interesting. Guests come from all over the world and from different backgrounds, yet everyone shares a genuine excitement for travel. You can socialize as much or as little as you want. As an extroverted introvert, this was perfect. 

The Route from Pretoria to Victoria Falls 

The train departed at 10am as we began our route north toward Zimbabwe. The landscapes shift constantly. Open savannah. Thorny brush. Small passing towns. Long stretches of brown fields during the dry season. 

Our journey included one excursion at Hwange National Park. Longer itineraries include additional stops, but our game drive gave us a full taste of the local wildlife. It was dry season, so most rivers and watering holes had disappeared. The land looked golden brown and very dry. We saw large numbers of baboons and elephants throughout the drive. At the very end, we came across a lion who began roaring loudly to call out to his brother. Hearing that sound carry across the dry land is something I will never forget. 

Was It Worth It and Who Should Do It 

Yes, the experience is absolutely worth the cost. Rovos Rail feels like stepping back into a slower and more intentional way of travel. It delivers incredible food, comfortable suites, immersive scenery, and a true escape from anything that distracts you at home. 

This journey is ideal for travelers who appreciate slow luxury, design details, elevated dining, and peaceful scenery. It is perfect for couples, solo travelers, and anyone who wants to explore Africa in a different way. 

It is not a match for travelers who need fast paced days or constant connectivity. 

Final Thoughts 

Living on Rovos Rail for three days gives you an appreciation for the craft that goes into every detail. The restored carriages, the thoughtful service, the elegant dining, and the dramatic African landscapes all come together to create an experience that feels nostalgic and luxurious at the same time. I left the train with a full camera roll, new friendships, and a renewed sense of calming luxury. 

If you have ever wondered whether it lives up to the hype, I can confidently say that it does. It exceeds it.